22-09-09
Don’t call these black and white
Meghan Collison @ Supreme (NY)
A boy and a girl, a young man and a young woman, a man and a woman. And so on. Honestly, not our favorite topic as you might know we are entirely devoted to female models and our page is hundred percent dedicated to them. So, tonight we'll talk about a different combo as our usual multi-girls editorials, even more as the pictures above are taken from Levi's European campaign (and you might have noticed we don't feature many campaigns). And, as it's not mentioned under the picture, the second character is male model Josh Beech.
Meghan Collison would have been enough as a good reason to drop a few lines on this new campaign but we need to confess there is another one who's got as much weight for us. Photographer is no other than Chadwick Tyler who belongs to our all-time favorites since the day we discovered his work. We relentlessly followed each of his step through various magazine, how his style evolves while strengthening its core and all the possibilities his unique approach have brought to models books.
Halfway between creating his own creatures and capturing the hidden sides of his models, Chadwick pushed us to reconsider the place of the photographer in the process and think further about the nuances one's work requests to stay true to his vision. That was already the stunning part of his recent story in Dazed & Confused and it seems to be the most important (to our eyes and souls) about his brand new piece. His Levi's campaign.
If it's much easier to see the differences between the three pictures above and his famous tests or Tiberius exhibition, we always considered each of all his pieces as totally unique due to the model and the atmosphere she brings or brings to his mind. And this is exactly what makes these new ads stand out if you are interested in (or, as we are, focused on) the subtle details that create such special atmospheres. Here, the choice of Meghan has its importance provided the Collison-gaze's own power. Dive in, get trapped and smile.
Differences on one front make the whole story more consistant and makes you able to give birth to masterpieces. Sounds tricky for the unaware ears, looks thrilling for the impatient eyes. Even more when you keep in mind the gap between Levi's campaigns in US and Europe, when the latter was shot by the photographer who embodies (for us, at least) the New York style like no other. No wonder actually as we, European, might be hungry for such a vision paying tribute to denim's soul and legacy in an old-school yet modern way. And we, personally, are always hungry for more of Chadwick's work. Tyler might have gone commercial for the best but commercial has also turned more Chadwick than ever. And these are definitely more than black and white. In the technique, the aesthetic, the vision.
Also make sure not to miss the movies (#1, #2 and #3), directed by Chadwick Tyler and Wardenclyffe. Third one is pure love.
18-09-09
Bradford is Blogging: Wake-Up with Make-Up
Ranya Mordanova @ Supreme (NY)
New York fashion week is already over, last shows took place last night (Paris time) and the frenzy should slow down in town and cross the ocean to hit London (already done). Good surprises, less good surprises, little fashion shocks and good moments following the whole thing from here that might turn into sweet memories, especially as we take care of our soundtrack as well. Won't reveal the beat, though, apart from heartbeats maybe. One thing is sure, this morning we woke up with make-up while checking out what Bradford Gregory did over the last few days.
Among the nicest surprises of the week is definitely Ranya Mordanova. Not that we didn't expect her to catch a couple of cool castings but her walk at Anna Sui was quite the crowning and pushed her status a little higher again. See the world from above and tell us how it looks like. If her appearance at Rodarte sounded like a natural option after Givenchy and Vogue Paris, Anna Sui was less expect and certainly adds another arrow to Ranya's bow, from gothic creature to girly schoolboy (or tomboyish schoolgirl up to your current mood). Here she is, pictured by Bradford at 3.1 Philip Lim - best casting and styling ever for Lim's label. Let there be light.
Naty Chabanenko @ Women (NY) and Karmen Pedaru @ Next (NY)
Two feline beauties, always perfect in their editorials (that famous supplement of soul some girls are able to bring without even being aware of it) and that we prefer backstage than walking. Naty Chabanenko, impish creature in front of the camera giving a glimpse like others say hello. So, say hi to Naty and get that playful point. Same show, same room, other atmosphere. We wrote it in our previous post, it takes a good girl's mood to change an atmosphere. Karmen Pedaru, lost in her thoughts, gazing at the unkown and leaving us in mystery. Eagerly waiting for the Estonian's next piece on glossy paper and let there be light again.
Katya Kulyzhka @ Women Direct (NY)
Katya Kulyzhka made her marks this week walking for United Bamboo and DKNY, bringing her freshness and cuteness everywhere with her. Get caught by the impish, playful look like us - Katya will be our next TMSRRE-girl, we promise you. There is much energy and good vibrations coming from Women Direct's darling. She's got a card for Milan now and we bet her journey isn't about to end. Backstage queenie in making ?
Daniela Kocianova @ Supreme (NY) and Alex Sandor @ One (NY)
After the playful, the quiet, thoughtful expressions out of two of the most intellectual looks of the week. Supreme's newcomer who's actually already a perennial favorite of ours, Daniela Kocianova and One's sweetie-with-stamina from Romania, Alex Sandor were both among the good surprises of the week. You can never clearly predict the future (even near) of such models: their very own look will always appeal to a few good eyes but you never know how many of these will be in the mood. As Daniela grabbed Marc by Marc, Ruffian, Vera Wang and Alex gathered Jason Wu, DKNY and Phi on her showlist, the mood was good. Both were caught by Bradford at Alexandre Herchcovitch. Crashing beats and fantasy.
Mey Bun @ New York Models (NY)
New York Models editorial prodigy turned blonde for the shows and was spotted last minute at Koi Suwannagate by Bradford Gregory. It will remain one of the most striking picture of this week and the intense gaze she gave to his camera echoes her performances in i-D by Chadwick Tyler and Vogue Russia by Terry Tsiolis. The perfect goodbye. And see you soon.
16-09-09
Bradford is Blogging: Backstage is Bubbling
Jules Mordovets @ IMG (NY)
Time is running fast and Bradford is blogging. That's the biggest news of the week so far, apart from the shows results of course. For anyone wondering what a talented photographer can do when he can't do tests, Bradford Gregory's blog will give a detailed poetic answer. We love the personal approach, the atmosphere on his shots and, as you may guess, the titles of his post. Just brilliant and worth to check daily this week.
First pic we picked from it is Jules Mordovets at Zac Posen. Always classy and starting another flawless season with Zac Posen of course, Herve Leger, Ruffian and, since yesterday, Rodarte in her pocket. View more here: Burning Bridge and Ecstasy - a must-see for Tiiu Kuik supporters celebrating a comeback and Abbey Lee addicts as well.
Wiktoria Malicka @ One (NY)
Wiktoria was promising on pictures, we know now how it translates on runways. The poised Polish beauty at One Management had a little climax this week at Rad Hourani (where Bradford captured her unusual beauty) after popping up here and there including at one of our favorite casting, Vivienne Tam. More Rad by Bradford here: In a Room Without a Window.
Ryan Martel @ DNA (NY)
We were waiting for Ryan to appear somewhere and we fell in love with her delicate look at Rad Hourani (who definitely has one of the most interesting castings of the season, Gloria Loitz opened/closed and the aesthetic was strong from look one to final). We put her on our list after seeing her in DNA's Spring 2010 package, got a good feeling and kept our fingers crossed. Bradford caught her sweet and mysterious sides together on the same picture, giving us a clue on how much presence she's got even when she doesn't look at the camera.
Myf Shepherd @ Next (NY)
Can't get enough of Myf. Season after season. Love the sense of humor, the drama, the poses, the hypnotising smile. We were lucky enough to see what she can give to the camera, live at a polaroid session in Paris. Her stories in Pop and 10 are beyond captivating, her backstage performance are turning moments into momentum. Myf's got that Midas touch and her book is gold.
Alex Sandor @ One (NY)
Alex Sandor is another of these girls that never fade away and keep the mystery alive season after season. Intellectual beauty, truth to One's aesthetic, she's been caught reading by Bradford Gregory with a slightly impish expression behind her book. Good vibrations, vivid mood and elegant walk are highlights of hers and whatever happens you can count on Alex. View more on the series including her and Myf here: A Spray of Stars Hit the Screen. So true.
Yulia Kharlapanova @ Women (NY)
Just as Myf or Alex, Yulia has become a timeless beauty of our times building a strong book, solid runway reputation and using her potential to the max wherever she goes. She's also one of the most geniune person you could meet in backstage. Natural and naturally elegant. The first star from Avant Models Moscow, catwalk queen at Women worldwide opened the way to a brand new generation of young sprouts from Russia.
Make sure you saw it all on Bradford's blog and be back there later today for a fresh update on the latest shows in New York. More pictures, more titles, more love.
30-08-09
Gilbert François: Do What You Want, Be What You Are
Merel Zoet @ SPS (Amsterdam) and Dana Korstenbroek @ SPS (Amsterdam)
"Fashion is emotion" were the first words of photographer Gilbert François when he started talking about his work. Our goal was to dedicate the whole post to him and thought we needed to unveil the philosphy behind the pictures. "Never pose, never act. It's fake, it looks fake and a model must be her true self" in front of the camera. Do what you want, be what you are. There might be the secret of his unique touch and the reason why we love his work that much. Yes, he's another of our beloved photographers who consider the model as a character, her own character. The ones that truly captivate people like us who are mostly interested in the process of building careers, the ones that can reveal the raw potential and allow the models to explore it a little further.
Erica Krauter @ Elite (Paris) and Lia Serge @ Elite (Paris)
"In the photo, everything has to be in balance, the clothes, hair, make-up, the light. But the heart of the image starts in the mood of the model, which comes from the state of mind and dwelling in the face and eyes of the model. " The mood. A word we write so often we are sometimes afraid of a misuse or an overuse, afraid to make it lose its own sense. But when you hear it from the mouth of the person behind the lens, you might forget your fears towards this famous mood: it makes sense by itself. So, the mood is the heart of the story, where it all begins. First for the model, trying to set her marks in this cruel, crazy and beautiful fashion world. Then, for the creatives that care about the final result but heavily need the process to be carefully respected. Behind the mood is the state of mind, the personality and what comes out of this mood is what will stay forever in our minds. The attitude, the expressions of the eyes, the body language.
Irma Weij @ Paparazzi (Amsterdam)
"If I just press the button of my camera, the photo doesn't hold any magic, it is just a picture. I catch the energy which emerges from the eyes of the model." Pictures are easy and gets easier to produce each day. Technically speaking. The magic will remain a sort of mystery, the best kept secret forever. Not that it's really hard to explain, Gilbert's words seem clear enough - catching the energy that emerges. Only the way to make this happen doesn't show up that easily. "To be able to catch this energy, I have to give a lot of energy as well to the model. And into the camera." Fifty-fifty or whatever percent it is, the model-photographer combo is a true team where each part has his own role to play but one can not go without the other. Again, once it's written down it sounds so clear, so easy. When you try to experience it by yourself, you'll get to learn how to bring this energy into the camera and where to find it in your own. And, then, to know how to capture the same from the model to carry it into the picture. If all goes well, this energy will be released everytime the viewer watches the photo. We are the viewers right now, all went well.
Agnes Buzala @ Next (Paris) and Johanna Ovelius @ Next (Paris)
"When all elements are there, like beautiful clothes / hair / make-up, nice light, but the photo lacks an emotion, it's like unpacking an empty box with nice wrapping, but no present inside. A picture must have a surprise. When the picture releases the energy, which has been captured at the shoot, then it won't tell the whole story to the beholder at one blink of an eye. The picture unravels the true story bit by bit, piece by piece. It invites the viewer to look again, to discover more. " Sometimes, the magic of a picture comes from the most prosaic aspects of the process behind. That's why we loved Gilbert's metaphoric words on it, the empty box story. Once again it's a complicated way that doesn't say its name, hiding itself behind simple things. That's the odd mix that makes it magical, the contradiction between all the aspects of creation. Gilbert talks about some contradictions himself and the balance between several elements that actually make a picture but doesn't seem to go hand in hand very easily. Easy, uneasy. The usual dilemma strikes back. "Recognition. Illusion. Natural beauty. Powerful softness. Fears natural dynamics."
Romy @ Storm (London)
When you put all the elements together and have a look at the pictures he chose to illustrate it, you almost have a list of "girls to watch". Not a combination of winning numbers but an inspiring line-up that reminds us on how modeling and then casting are human and highly emotional with the beautiful flaws that makes it worth to watch. And for some of us, to live. There is no written recipe, maybe a magical formula but, for sure, the ingredients that counts in a model's career are as hard to handle as they are precious. You expect this girl to walk that show and, if by chance she walks it, you expect her to be in this magazine working with that photographer. You get disappointed and dive into all the usual misunderstanding that takes some paths for granted, speculation for flawless truth and fashion for science. But who can predict crushes and prevent souls to get out of control ? When you have a look at the models on Gilbert's pictures here, you'll notice how different could be one's career from the other's at almost every level: where and when they started, where they are now and the overall pattern of their agencies' strategies. Though, if you just put them side by side and look them as a whole, the casting makes sense.
Sascha @ Next (Paris) and Edythe Hughes @ Ford (Paris)
Last but not least, Gilbert François' miscellaneous thoughts and words about inspiration and the little sentences that tells so much. Getting "a lot of inspiration from music" finds its echo here as we've been playing a lot with words, sounds a colors ourselves, not only when we write for this page but also as painters. "I think music is the closest way to express an emotion or a feeling. From there, music can be translated back to colours, shadings, contrast, and state of mind." And back to a more technical note, Gilbert shoots "both analogue and digital, but the end result is the same, I don't treat one or the other different" highlighting with other words the importance of the model and the inspiration over the rest or at least their prominent place in the process. The corollary sounds right too: "My best pictures are the ones that look so easy to make."
14-06-09
Fasten the seatbelts of your Thunderbird
Tayane Leao @ Ford (NY)
Looking like a perfect free bird with her new hairdo - a brilliant mix of cool and classy - Tayane is back on our page with another brilliant series of test shots. This time by Bradford Gregory who perfectly captured her laid-back look and dramatic mood in the atmosphere of an ending afternoon at the beach. Apart from our love for what we see (and our love for Tayane's portfolio), another little detail that counts a lot is the way the photographer sees it, his feelings towards the work he did with a model. We could notice something like a real thrill when Bradford sent us these pictures. A little detail that counts even more when it happens twice in a week. Fasten your seatbelts, etc.
13-06-09
The crackling in our heads said it's now
Charlotte Pallister @ DNA (NY)
When we quickly saw her last March during fashion week in Paris it was like a fast blast of the past. And a quick glimpse into the future. Near future ? The future is now and in NY. Charlotte is signed with DNA and has recently refreshed her portfolio with some of the most promising photographers of their era. Including this series by Maxim Repin who was already featured here with his tests shots of Jana Kay and Sacha Blue, both at IMG. Capturing the girls' very personal potential isn't always the easier thing to do but Maxim managed it so far with his latest pieces of work and Charlotte's very own, very special appeal clearly shows on the pictures - distant yet mesmerizing.
22-05-09
Maxim Repin, testing with Yana, NY
Yana @ DNA (NY)
Yana belongs to the new generation at DNA, Maxim Repin belongs to the next generation of photographers. And here is what happens when both work together. Maxim just did her latest tests, changing a little his style. It's raw but sleek, very welcome for a girl like Yana (and an agency like DNA). Aesthetics match. Perfectly. It reminds us of the interveiw we did a few months ago with Maxim who told us about his focuses and experiences, what he's looking for and what he's striving for. Now and in the future. It's good to see him move one step forward on the way he wants. It's even better when it goes Yana's way as well.
10-05-09
Rose et Noir: More Marlowe!
Marlowe Daly @ Just WM (Paris), MC2 (NY), Joy (Milan)
We said we'll show you more before the end of this weekend. And here we go. More Marlowe in pink and black, by Bradford Gregory who just shot them a few days ago. As everybody else who had a chance to work with Marlowe or who just knows about her, he seemed to be very happy and even impressed by the photo session. This is basically what happens when a naturally talented young model works with a great photographer to bring more tests in her book. A good face meets a good eye, she has been able to bring the best of her potential and he knew how to capture it in a dozen of pictures. See the whole story on his blog right now.
08-05-09
Jacquelyn as it seems
Jacquelyn @ Ford (NY)
Laid-back AND dramatic. These were our first thoughts when we saw Jacquelyn's tests by James Mahon. The depth of her gaze is impressive, almost haunting. But her poses, her attitude in front of the camera is pure coolness, relaxed and relaxing. Self confident enough but never too much which makes the perfect balance when you're looking for a nice way to feature a model in development. Maybe the most interesting (and even thrilling) is how James managed to capture her image the best way: a white background, a simple room. Somewhere she can shine and show her potential, playing her own character on every single shot.
27-04-09
In the darkness you're the light
Daniela @ New York Models (NY)
We saw her newest polaroids on New York Models blog last week in a post called Welcome Back Daniela. It seems she's just back for good and already working well - here are her latest test, shot by James Mahon. Meet Daniela, upside-down and from every angle, in any mood. Cute, dark, playful, tongue-in-cheek. Every single expression you can expect from such a fantastic face! Full force back, we'd say. So New York but with this little twist which is sometimes hard to find. 5'10 with magical eye-brows, hazel eyes and we guess we're not the only ones to see extreme potential in Daniela.
