19-08-09
What Will Be Will Be
Karolina Mikolajczyk @ D'Vision (Poland), Next (Paris, Milan, London, NY)
Just a teaser, just a taste like the taste of coffee making us fly high this afternoon. Karolina Mikolajczyk, the Polish intellectual beauty is having an unexpected playful moment in front of Lukasz Zietek's camera for Michal Szulc's new collection What Will Be Will Be. Read more, see more, learn more on LEXPOSURE.NET right now and keep that team in mind for the future.
04-02-09
What have they done to our song ?
Isa @ Select Verve (London)
What have they done to my song, Ma ? This song's lyrics hadn't stopped to sound and resound in our heads this afternoon. Feeling like that, feeling sorry to see some work being denatured for the sake of what we'd call random conformism. To see how useless it can be to put your heart and soul in something when it hasn't been clearly requested. Do we have to get used to that? Our mums would say yes. They would have advised us to put some water in our wine. In french you say so. Calm down. Tone down.
If there is one model today who seriously doesn't put any water in her wine it's clearly Isa. Hundred percent herself. Hundred percent true to her look, her vibe. To what made her a natural choice for Christopher Kane S/S 09 show. She walked down the runway wearing that outfit with the big monkey screaming. A vision. If she's now ready to make her debuts with Women NY, we don't forget we owe to Select her brilliant development from one of the most captivating face to a rare pearl on the catwalk (you can add Armand Basi to her booking list as well) and on the pages of Another Magazine. Her future is certainly brighter than our lunchbreak was and she's the right kind of model to make us forget the bad news wherever they come from. We'll write some other songs, she'll keep on writing her own story. The first chapter was already one of a kind.
21-07-08
Fake grass, true love
Olena Kryvoruchko @ Studio KLRP
You can be surrounded by beautiful mountains and beautiful lakes and dreaming of sitting down in a random café reading Vogue Paris. You might have some fantastic holidays opportunities and your only dream is waking up on a grey, hectic october morning. You can have the gorgeous silence of the french countryside with its most coveted landscape ever with all you need to relax yet all you really want would be the traffic-jam at night that makes you sleepless. You have the sun above and live for the clouds. You are like us. The grass is always greener on some Jonathan Leder's polaroids or on Olena's latest test from Studio KLRP. Why her and why now ? Maybe because a Lanvin girl enjoying some fake countryside atmosphere on glossy paper is all we needed to see a smile upon each other's face, desperate not having subscribed to Vogue (well, no Olena in this issue but a touch of Anna Selezneva would make it too) and desperately waiting for fall. It's turning into a litany but keeps us posting our favorite pictures. Need to buy some chocolate-flavored cigarettes tomorrow and smell september, even for five minutes.
13-05-08
Depiction of a delightful
Magdalena Frackowiak @ Elite (Paris), Independent (London)
Fully painted or totally natural with as less make-up as possible. Magdalena's showed us over and over that she can fit all the looks in both categories. Already body-painted in a previous issue of i-D and in pastel tones for Vogue Germany a little later, then just back with colors and feathers in Numéro to be followed by a sleeker one for 10 magazine (including the cover) and her brand new editorial in current i-D. She's a true performer, a delicate chameleon. We remember her from her debuts in Tank and italian Glamour, we thout there was much potential in this pretty face, we weren't disappointed. She's keeping the high level, picture after picture. Fixture after fixture. Fresh and flirtatious on one shot, terribly bewitching on the next one. Our favorite breastless beauty still leaves us breathless.
18-04-08
Weirdly Sensual, part 2: Kira the new Kiki
Kira Glatzel @ Joy Models (Milan)
When we saw her first, we immediately thought there was going to be a "Meet Kira !" soon but as we were also working on that other topic "Weirdly Sensual" we finally make the decision to add Kira. Who else, after all, could be considered as the epitome of that strange beauty ? Who else mixes that melancholic gaze to this gamine look ? The question of her hair actually led us to compare her to Kiki de Montparnasse and we would openly go for the iconic hairdo of the muse to enhance the editorial power of the young Kira.
Weirdly Sensual, part 1: the Ingredients and the Image
Isa & Emma Karlsson, Antonella Graef, Isa & Loulou Kamp, Kersti Pohlak, Kinga Luk
thanks to OlgaKorbut (1st row), Kokobombon (2nd and 3rd row) and OhJane (4th and 5th row) for the pictures
What if the border between weird and sensual was smaller than ever ? If both were closer than we would ever imagine and would get on well brilliantly ? What if the next generation of models, or simply an upcoming team of fresh faces were both very weird with an unexpected sensuality ? Weirdly sensual ?
17-04-08
Controversy (be my sole survivor)
Nasya Piankouskaya, Margaryta Senchylo, Sabina Karlsson with Danguole Stancikaite and Alison Nix.
From Teen Vogue apr'08 (courtesy of Jewelbox), Teen Vogue may'08 (courtesy of Luxx) and Marie Claire apr' 08
Seems that today - or these months - it's easier to shock by the clean (clinic ?) aspect of a cover, the minimal styling of an editorial than with something that have breed controversy and misunderstanding through the last decades. No need for raw pictures anymore. No need for blood, clean is the new blood as blood was the new black. No need for sex. No rush for trashy and flashy any longer. Get a white background, a cleaner-than-clean hairdo, a pile of random clothes and put them together on a stiff-looking model and you can be sure people (readers ?) will be barking and howling.
When we saw Alison's latest cover for Marie-Claire Italia, our first thought was it looked like a very honest cover. Nothing striking but in the end something very simple with a little twist that makes it nonetheless quite interesting. We were really astonished by the reactions from other people. Never thought such a clean and quiet cover could make some violent waves. People laughed and people puked at a cover that should have simply been sticked to a monthly mainstream vision of global fashion. Without any attempt to catch a broader audience or make some extra headlines for being that controversial. Yes, there much more controversy today in making the cleanest picture possible. Maybe what's controversial is the obvious choice of a white background when dirt has become so easy to handle. And to picture. Dirt is cleaner than the white background. Dirt is less scary that the void. We love the void. Love the unknown. Dirt has lost it's appeal. Dirt has been cheapened all over the years while clean things were considered as uninteresting and anyone who worked on a clean picture took from this situation the greatest opportunity: consider the clean aspect as an alibi. And put the emphasis somewhere else. Alison's almost kitschy outfit and stiff pose, glossy skin and awkward hairdo bring much power to that "plain" cover. Plain is bewitching, plain is amazing. We want more plain. Plain. Plain is where imagination still have its word to say after the picture has been printed. Plain leaves room enough for the person who reads the mag and take a closer look at the pictures inside. But please, please, please. No fake plain. We want real plain. Like a Nastya Piankouskaya running barefoot on the beach, trying to smile, to look happy to be there. She might be happy, we don't know. But what's beautiful is the way she can't get rid of that melancholic thing she has deep in her eyes. Probably this editorial was meant to picture a young lady featuring clothes that would look good on the beach. In the end it's a marvelous mix of feelings, brought back by an excellent model who was able to show her full talent. Simply because it was just all about modeling clothes. Next issue, next step. Replace the names and let's go back to the same background. And experience some other smiles and discover some other hidden feelings (NB: Sole Survivor is the title of the last editorial in this month's Teen Vogue. Unfortunately it's only shoes).
26-03-08
Self-confidence
I've been used to take portrait pictures with a one-use-only-camera because it provides an interesting result (due to an overaction of flash) for some illustration researches. Looking at those pics made me realise how girls don't fear this kind of obviously cheap camera with such an aggressive lighting. How precious is that !
People who don't mind taking some risks, isn't it - after all - what we are striving for right now?
13-02-08
The Ice-Cream and the Unknown Face
Bora Aksu f/w 08-09,
Lyoka Tyagnereva by Greg Lotus (Vogue Italia) and Martha Streck (polaroid).
What's the exact link between Lyoka eating an ice-cream and the unknown redhead walking for Bora Aksu ? Obviously nothing. Excepted the same feeling of strange delightful déjà-vu bringing to the atmospheres of the shot and the show a specific appeal, something we could name the call of the wild. Without kidding. It's dark and windy outside... and we would be more than OK for having an ice-cream in the yard. Wearing some Bora Aksu f/w 08-09.
NY f/w 08-09
What happens when I see some safe, soft, sound clothing while I wanted some saucy, sassy, spicy creations ? What happens when I wanna be delighted and I have to fear so much of being bored before the end ? What happens... What happened ? Actually nothing ever happens in NY during the fashion week. Nothing bad or good, nothing thrilling, nothing at all. Marc Jacobs doesn't exist, he's just a dream I had for a few seasons and I'm waking up and he's not there anymore. Where is Marc ? Nowhere. Where's nowhere ? Nowhere. What are those shapes I strongly believe I've seen last week ? Nothing. Nothing is real and I'd better live a bit more often with my eyes closed. I'm a bit kidding, I've nothing against NY fashion week of course but I had to skip many collections due to the fact they just don't inspire me at all, I've nothing to say... even on some rather good, some decent ones. The pieces I've finally picked up were sometimes parts of some unconsistent collections, some quirky ones but they had some proper qualities, were standing out by themselves. Some ideas as well, many ideas. NY is about clothing, clothing is about ideas. Not tailoring, not skills, not tasks. Ideas. Just brilliant ideas. Let the tailoring qualities to Milan's craftsmanship power and Paris overwhelming creativity. Why not to London's excentricity. But keep the ideas in NY, keep the feeling that clothing is mixing. All about having the good idea in time. And forget the bland beige, go for bad clothing, bad hair, bad ideas and turn it good. Turn it upside-down and forget what's around. You don't have to stay tuned for the shock of the new, rather the shock of the old turned new. Maybe. It's all about maybes.
Obedient Daughters, Ohne Titel
Jackets, jackets, jackets. I think I've got more jackets in my closets than any other kind of garments. I love jackets and wore only one or two of them per year. Sounds odd. That's odd. If it wasn't odd it wouldn't have any thrilling aspect. There's nothing more delightful than finding an old jacket left alone for years and years that is just praying to be worn now or next week. That's why I loved Obedient Daughters second season's try in women clothing. It's all about jacket, it's all about my life. At least my life at 8 am when I'm picking the pieces I want to wear the morning. The bright mornings when I decided to change my jacket. And this is the kind of collection that makes you want to change your jacket. One after the other. Like "over and over again, without end". Maybe you can forget about everything else in the collection. But not the jackets. And from a small idea of change in the early morning you get a full-time job for all the day: reviewing jackets. I'll stop here with this jacket-mania or you're going to feel drunk. I already do. Jackets (it's the last time I write this word) are like alcohol to me: I don't know how to stop drinking, I don't know where it's leading me but the effect is granted. I look mad and egocentric but in a rather good way. Ohne Titel, without title. Prints etc. And tuxedos, printed tuxedos. From head to toe. Some Haider Ackermann vibe, just what it takes to look effortlessly good. Just that.
Chris Benz, Tracy Reese
Chris Benz does it again. Chris Benz is my darling in NY since the first time I saw one of his collection. Chris Benz is the one who knows how to dress my dolls. That's just what I want, what I need, what I'm dreaming off night and day. And in full colors, heavy but fresh, preppy but almost cute, granny-chic but showing endless possibilities. And so on. The list can go on forever, my imagination as well. Apple-green, bad tailoring, ugly shoes and I've got the look. I remember my own grand-mother was wearing this kind of shapes. But hers was orange with white polkadots. I think I've already written that on this blog. Whatever, designers always do the same collection twice, there's nothing bad in being a bit repetitive myself. Tracy Reese. Means green and green. Green that doesn't suit every eyes. Whatever, green always suits mine. And designers can use it limitless and with the worst taste you can imagine (try the hardest), I don't mind at all. Green vs. spleen, maybe. Green vs. black (and mixed to black) for sure. There are always some nice green pieces, every season. That's pretty logical provided they're green.
Jovovich Hawk
That's just perfect. I'm striving for perfection since I've seen a white dress by Dévastée last october in Paris. Perfection is silly, is ridiculous, is easy and wearable. That's all. Perfection is to select four outfits, all from the same mold, with the same mood and the same length. Worn by the same model with the same overwhelming haircut. Love Ms. Prueger. Sweet as a Shea. Makes me want to cut my hair or buy an expensive wig (all wigs are expensive, many look cheap). So I probably would be in the right mood - finally - for loving some shorter cuts and tighter shapes. Ladadi, ladada.
Christian Cota
When Alena meets Martin. When shoulders meet shoulders. When Russia meets Belgium. When etc. When and co. Actually I think every good collection is something meeting something else at the right moment. And both the "somethings" and the right moment and in the eyes and the mind of the beholder. You might like Christian Cota's f/w 08 collection, you might just think it's nothing worth a five minutes stop. You might think it's simply a few ideas thrown on a runway and it is. Runways are the best place to throw away all your ideas. Till next season.
Marc by Marc Jacobs, Jolibe
Marc Jacobs is a visionaire. This season he presented his second line before his main line. I can only agree, Marc by Marc was much more thrilling. Nothing special, just some green shoes and asymmetrical shapes here and there. But this is enough, sometimes, to make it more thrilling than some inventive silhouettes. It's a matter of point and as almost everything in fashion it's a matter of eyes. Mines prefer the clumsy Marc. Ditto on Jolibe, nice overall collection.
Morgane Le Fay, Proenza Schouler
Morgane Le Fay offered some pretty interesting and attractive silhouettes. So did Proenza Schouler (on a larger scale but with much more less interesting outfits between the good one). That's always what I like: when the most unexpected mixes turn out to look like the most easily wearable outfits, the most naturally and effortlessly elegant ones. Sure that Ghesquière knows how to make that. Sure that there isn't many challengers today. But there are many designers that can have their effortless elegance moment from time to time as their collections go by. Lucky are those who know how to turn a feeling you have for one outfit into a overall impression after the whole collection. Lucky Morgan Le Fay.
Rad Hourani
Some designers are strongly linked to a specific town. Some others have already their two feet in the future. Rad Hourani totally fits in the second category. Not the typical collection you're expecting to see in NY, neither the kind you'd expect from another town. Like Paris or London. Maybe one day we'll link NY to Rad, at least that's what we're allowed to dream today. Rad's timeless, precise designs are probably more able to fit the current high-profile, editorial-oriented models that have been carefully developed by agencies like Supreme, New York Models, Elite or One. You can always think models are here to fit the designers' collection rather than the other way round but the truth is that NY agencies are mostly ahead of many designers in their aesthetics. And the gap has grown out of proportions. More than ever, many castings were disappointing, totally unattractive, unappealing due to their total lack of sparkling new faces to discover through the shows. Rad Hourani was the buzz of the week because he clearly claimed the casting was going to be an important part of the whole thing. Because some "exclusive exclusives" were announced while other highly watched casting had some pretty expected exclusive models... This could have taken the attention away from the clothes themselves but didn't at all and probably put some more stress on the fact that a great collection doesn't rely only on the designers' sole imagination and talent. But rather on a global yet extremely accurate vision (broadened to the max) of what people will see on the runway. That means the important is the silhouette taking place in an atmosphere, that means the clothes themselves, the way models are wearing them and how all has been linked together...
-Pénélope
