The f/w 08-09 REDHEAD ISSUE: An Ace called Alice
Who is Alice ? Who is really Alice ? She's the third red-haired Alice we've seen these last years. Alice Rausch is maybe the most unknown of them and you may know her only as one of the redhead twins from Luxemburg (even if she did shows in London f/w 08-09 and an editorial with Cicely in 10). Alice Gibb's name sounds more familiar and she was almost popular last season building a book relying on Miu Miu, Giles, Marc Jacobs, Jil Sander or an editorial in Vogue Italia. Not bad at all even if things have dramatically slowed down last month (if you except a wonderful editorial in latest Tank). Last but not least, Alice Burdeu, a copper-red-haired and leggy Aussie appeared on the fashion scene under Elite NY's banner. Portrait of the stunning debuts of what looks like a "clever career".
This is Alice ! From her wildcard status to one of the aces of the season
Alice Burdeu's runway season is almost exceptional. If many models are making some huge debuts like hers every season, it doesn't happen as often that these models are actually couting among the "dark horses". Alice was Elite NY's wildcard this season. Some expected a quick success, many others expressed their doubts before the season started. Before fashion week began in New York last month. Starting off with a full dozen of shows including Marc Jacobs (if the castings there was weaker as usual, we had at least a first-class redhead as always) then landing on three of the most watched castings in London a week later, Alice's debuts in the major fashion cities was simply remarkable. Once again, we could hear or read some people having doubts on how she'll manage to keep this list growing in Milan and Paris but as soon as a model makes some decent debuts, you can expect the same sceptical voices. As well as you will always have some models who don't reach the expected level (they're killing NY before being killed in Paris) and models who don't survive the hype around them (pre-season hype, especially).
This is also Alice, a perfect addition to Moschino C&C and Dolce & Gabbana's castings
That was for the little round-up of all the possibilities of career after a good start in New York. Now Alice's own case. What came next after London was even more exciting. Jil Sander, Dolce & Gabbana (as well as D&G) and Moschino Cheap & Chic among others. The most important fact is probably all those castings are always very relevant. They use some rather famous models but don't cast every up-and-coming model we should see everywhere around. They simply picked those who fit the brand's image (her long face probably helped her for Jil Sander's casting) or the collection's atmosphere. It's more important for a model's career to do the right shows than having been spotted almost everywhere. Being able to fit very different designers' vision is one thing, being able to bring something new and personal (and by this way, that won't match every casting) is not as common, not to say it's quite unique. We've seen a couple of models that were in that class this season and Alice has a very good place among them.
Alice in Wonderland: poised androgyny at Demeulemeester and Margiela,
the epitome of a McQueen favorite and "so Céline" !
Last but not least, Paris was her climax. Absolute climax. She did many show and almost only high profile ones. Not every major shows, just those where she were fitting perfectly the collection or the designer/brand's overall image. Who else, this season, was able to embody McQueen's typical aristocratic-looking, distant face ? Who else had the perfect (not too exaggerated) androgynious look to fit Ann Demeulemeester or Margiela's tastes ? Add to these shows, some others like Céline, Louis Vuitton, Dries Van Noten or Rue du Mail. Only where she could be at her best, only where she could bring something accurate to the atmosphere or the image. Alice will stand out this season for this reason: as far from underrated as she was, she wasn't overexposed. Every step she did was the right one. And step by step, this will lead to famous magazine and campaigns for some of the designers she walked for. Watch out. Dream on.