Issey Miyake

One of the feelings I had towards the last two seasons in Paris (and other cities too) was the perception of a run to a certain kind of futurism. Thinking of futuristic moods from the second half of the XXth century rather than futurism in painting who appeared earlier in the same century. Tons of clothes, high numbers of designers just got drawn into a futuristic atmosphere including a heavy use of metalic fabrics, space conquest references and more than everything else of pictures of how we imagined the XXIth century fourty or fifty years ago, maybe even before. Cars were supposed to fly, we were supposed to be dressed like cosmonauts wearing silver uniforms and fancy glasses or helmets, computers everywhere and so on. Besides of computers, nothing really happened that way and what some people might call "futuristic trend" is appearing more as nostalgy to me. Or a way to make us realise things didn't happen as expected and as interesting as it can be, thinking of the future, I've got something else in mind than metallics everywhere and robot-looking outfits.

That's the reason why Issey Miyake f/w 07-08 collection, held at the Carré du Temple, had such a big impact on me. First collection with Dai Fujiwara as creative director. Note that he was already working in Issey Miyake's team for a long time.

Almost immeditaly, I had a strong feeling for what I saw. Couldn't describe it with words at that moment. Was impressed. And inspired. There was something visibly different from everything I had seen in Paris so far and the big issue for me was to understand, to discover exactly where this difference was hidden. In the shapes ? The colors ? The details ? No clue. Maybe everywhere. Each collection is unique, that's properly a fact though some collections offers something beyond what first expresses as a feeling that could turn into an obsession. And then an inspiring, brand new vision. At that time I was mentally discussing what's futurism or futuristic and what's not. And why. This way came my vision of Issey Miyake f/w 07-08 collection.

Apart of the A-POC concept that made of Issey Miyake a visionaire brand, I saw a real "vibe from the future" in the collection. Caution ! I don't say this was intentionally done by the designer - I know the theme and the inspirations sources of his f/w 07-08 - just that this is the way I imagine future clothing. Not that we'll wear this in fifty or hundred years. I mean by future something I haven't thought about the minute before discovering it and that refer to nothing else I've seen or imagined. Something which starts right now and goes forward to the future. For now and tomorrow, brilliant ideas that have some true developpement possibilities. Endless and a little hard to explain. Let's start step by step...

There was something striking with the shapes. Or in the shapes themselves. I’d say this collection introduced me to another way to think shapes, far away from everything I liked before. Another idea of how elegance can express from a garment itself far beyond any concept of balance between two or more items, far away from constructed silhouettes resulting of quirky mixes or relevant combinations. Here, everything turned around some single garments that captured my attention simply by their very own features. By an extended use of asymmetrical cuts and shapes, meticulous folds and marvelous – this word is perfect for that situation, that was really like marvels – textures. Scissors-made leaf effects were maybe the ultimate worthy details on the masterpieces of the collection. I’ve rarely seen clothes that were so utterly creative turning naturally into raw elegance. I mean those leave-like pieces looked both sculptural, elaborated and plenty of refreshing refinement while many inventive designs just appear as highly spectacular then turn out to be unflattering at the end or offer narrow possibilities in terms of imagination when it comes to make them your own. That’s probably why I consider as a huge performance the ability to reach both that high level of limitless creative expression and immediate appeal.

Another strength of the collection that has to be mentioned is its overall diversity among the items and the silhouettes delivered by elaborated – and extended – palette of colors including prints and degrades, range of textures and fabrics as well as various types of garments from those dresses that immediately caught my eyes to different interpretations of what we can call coats (the word coat might sound a little restrictive compared to all the possible shapes and versions included in this collection). But every outfit is following the same thread of an authentic way of thinking clothes from now on to the future.

-Pénélope

A circular plaza (Rondo) – the gathering of friends, nature, music and the elements come together as one, presided over by the constant had of the watchtower, the sky, the planets and the cosmos above, which binds them all in an infinite circle of endless possibilities and great expectations.
First introduced in 1998, A-POC has evolved from the essential. Concept of a piece of cloth into a more modern interpretation. Moving forward, A-POC becomes integrated, providing a strong connection and identity that connects all the Issey Miyake collections. We call it "A-POC INSIDE".

Issey Miyake f/w 07-08
all runway pics from 77visions

The Issey Miyake team has begun anew with Dai Fujiwara as its Creative Director. Whilst keeping alive the "A Piece of Cloth" concept created by Issey Miyake, the team is also fashioning clothing appropriate to a new design era.
The 2007 Autumn & Winter Women’s Collection will also feature Men and Issey Miyake Fête – a collection inspired by celebration, not yet seen on the catwalk, thus contributing to a more complete and joyful world of Issey Miyake. Fujiwara will continue with the design philosophy and spirit of Issey Miyake. These three brands will incorporate A-POC INSIDE, which is based on the A-POC brand concept conceived by Fujiwara and Miyake in 1998.

-Issey Miyake official website (www.isseymiyake.com)

 
from Surface #67

 
Pictures from Dazed & Confused July'07 by Daniel Sanwald, styled by Katie Shillingford,
model: Vlada Roslyakova.

When Issey Miyake, one of the most innovative designers of our time, presented his Spring/Summer collection in 1999, he received a standing ovation when a procession of models walked down the catwalk linked by a simple piece of cloth. The acronym for this fabric technique – A-POC – would later lend its name to the subsequent line. Miyake, his textile engineer, and now his successor Dai Fujiwara, created the revolutionary system that uses a computer-programmed weaving machine to produce a single roll of cloth. Customers can complete the design process themselves, cutting out their garment to the required shape. The continuous tube-knit of A-POC also reduces fabric waste and points to a new future for clothing.
In Fujiwara’s words, the brand is "a constantly evolving concept that will translate into different forms from this epoch to the next", as seen in this season’s pleated and denim permutations.

-Dazed & Confused july 2007

Comments

[Pénélope]

thanks !
That was a big moment for me when I saw the collection for the first time and it remain in my head, in my mind for months trying to find out how to put words on the feelings I had toward it. thanks again, your words made my day when I read your comment.
xx

[dudblankpathetic]

this is totally amazing! i admire your blog even more than ever!