The wrong decision
It was on thursday during Paris fashion week. We had to make a decision. Which shows are we going to see the afternoon ? Zucca ? Haider Ackermann ? Véronique Leroy ? No clue. And we had to download some pictures from the camera and change the batteries to be sure we will be able to take some more pics. That's the reason we decided to skip Zucca, for the first time since we go to Paris for the shows. And it was our first wrong decision of the day. Before telling you my feelings towards Zucca's latest collection, let's see how was our trip to Haider Ackermann who showed at the other side of Paris. Garage Turenne, rue de Turenne, third district, etc. We already went there to see Veronique Branquinho earlier that week. Not to say it's not a good place, I prefer by far places like the Louvre, the Westin or the Trocadero. Though it's not a worthy reason to be disappointed. Not even that the collection in itself was bad, it was really interesting but there was something wrong with the atmosphere. Won't tell more or it's going to be too personal, let's stick to the show and the clothes.
Haider Ackermann s/s 08 - pics by Maud
It was very Haider Ackermann, true to his style or the vision I have from his style. Slender silhouettes, sheer fabrics, delicate elegance. Nothing wrong. Maybe not really my cup of tea though his jackets are always amazing to me, love the shoulders, love shoulders. Everyting was worth a look, every detail was brilliant and outfits were perfectly linked to each others without giving any impression of repetitive clothing or any lack of inspiration. That was great. Just great. But I would have loved to see Zucca's controversed "cliché" collection. Have seen it on the net, have seen things I would probably never thought I'd love yet this is exactly what's exciting about fashion: having violent changes among your tastes and the delightful impression of reniewing or extending your visions and ideas of clothing.
Zucca's collection seems to be inspired by hippy style but to me it remains "just inspired", not a carbon copy. The references might look obvious, I don't thing the purpose of the designer was to hide them. Subtlety isn't always synonym of subtle/hidden details and sometimes just hails out some collections overloaded with visible references and obvious inspiration. It's a bit risky if you consider how easy it could become caricatural or grotesque but Zucca managed to create a very personal collection and leaves me with one question: how ? That might be secret and it's better that way.
There is a small secret to turn a heavily hippy-inspired outfit to the most subtle combination of colors, textures and... vibes almost making me forget where does the references come from. Translucent green mini-skirt worn over trousers, long translucent purple dress worn with oversized khaki trousers, prints, patterns, purples again. At the end the only true reminiscence of the hippy-thing remain the make-up and styling. And I just thought: "wow, great idea to add a slight hippy vibe to those outfits !". Bye-bye clichés.
We met a friend at Haider Ackermann, the kind of friend we're always happy to see. Tons of fashion topics to share with her. As we were all tired we decided to strike a pause in a café, have a beer and relax, talking about all the shows we've seen in Paris. Was great, I always enjoy talking about Issey Miyake. Though, did we make another wrong decision skipping the next show ? In a way I'd say big no, we had a very good time but I can't stop thinking I should have said "let's go to the metro, direction Petit Palais". Or I begun to think that way once I saw Véronique Leroy online. Her last two collections were both really inspiring and her performance for Leonard (we went to the show the same day) should have been enough to lead me there. I remember how simple green trouser caught my attention. It was the right color, the right shape. And the right mixes.
This season, this green is back, on a dress now. And fabrics have got some dreamy textures. Tricky ideas on yellow, high-waisted short pants. I'm a bit speechless but I know I won't miss another collection by Véronique Leroy, could it be Leonard or her eponymous brand. Wrong decisions sometimes make some huge articles and raise my inspiration, though.